Fall shipment 2023

 

IKEWEN

FIELD NOTES
If Envínate’s reds can be compared to Syrah from Cornas, Carmelo’s ‘Ikewen’ bottling would be the Canaries version of Pineau d’Aunis, an ultra-pepper laden, fresh offering that belies its desert climate. Spicy, feral and rustic, this needs several years of cellaring before it will show its stuff.
 
RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW
Drink 2025 – 2030+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING
Proteins with vinegar-based sauces welcome. Roasted veggies with big flavor (think BBQ)

Read more about Ikewen here.

 
 

PODERI COLLA

FIELD NOTES
This wine from our previous collaboration is the product of years of trust-building with the inimitable Colla clan. As in years past, a submerged cap vinification produced an elegant wine with soft tannins, and an even darker color than you may have seen before. Pietro Colla found that the wine opens up beautifully after a few hours of decanting, though if you don’t have the time, swirling can unlock some of the aromatics as well. 2020 is a classic Barbaresco vintage and with ultra clean fruit, it was the perfect harvest for the Colla family to embrace their first zero sulfur bottling from start to finish.
 
RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW
Best 2025-2040+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING
Braised meats, mushroom rice, stewed tomato soup with barley and fish, eggplant parmesan

 
 

ARNAUD LAMBERT

FIELD NOTES

2020 CHENIN BLANC SAUMUR: Along with Poderi Colla, the 2020 Lambert Chenin debuts our first ever zero-sulfur bottling from the Loire Valley. Another long term yearly collaboration has carved a new pathway as Domaine Arnaud Lambert puts forth – in the excited whatsApp’ed words of Arnaud himself – “my best Viticole Chenin I think!!” Arnaud is a gem of a human, always willing to ask himself the hard questions about farming, organics, biodynamics, and address how he fits into that world in an unflinching way. Where others of his ilk (the dedicated, detail-oriented Cezanne-esque perfectionists) might balk at gradually moving farming into a regenerative place or bottling wine with zero sulfur and minimal intervention, with Viticole bottlings, Arnaud consistently takes the more interesting path of discovery.

2019 CHENIN BLANC SAUMUR: The scroll is rolled back even further for Saumur Chenin as Arnaud elects not to add any sulfur at bottling, in addition to no fining or filtration. Next year’s bottling will be completely sulfur free from start to finish, but the results of Arnaud’s walk on the wild side are already apparent here as this cuvée retains plenty of natural CO2. It is all at once linear and salt-tinged.

2018 CHENIN BLANC SAUMUR: Arnaud and I have done this on many occasions, often with extremely natural wines, some finding favor with Arnaud and others leaving him cold. Among the wines we see eye to eye on, we have found a direction we both want to go for both the Chenin Blanc grape and Cabernet Franc. Our 2018 bottlings are the most dramatic step yet on this vineyard-to-bottle journey.

2018 CABERNET FRANC: 2018 was a warm vintage, so this is a more forward style for Cab Franc that does not sacrifice the grape's telltale, earthy components. For those who like fruit, 2018 was the vintage for Loire Valley Cab Franc.  For those who prefer those more herbal components, I’d give this one a few years yet. The blending of key sites helped achieve balance in the final bottling. 
 
RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW
2020 CHENIN: Drink now - 2034+
2019 CHENIN: Drink now – 2037+
2018 CHENIN: Drink now – 2035+
2018 CAB FRANC: Drink now – 2040+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING
2020 CHENIN: Go all out and make the famous Troisgros ‘Poisson à l’oseille’ recipe! Simple if you have all the ingredients; good wild pink-fleshed fish, vermouth, fresh sorrel, shallots, and good crème fraîche.
2019 CHENIN: Roasted river fish, dal-chawal, braised endives, soft shell crab, pheasant with herbs and potatoes.
2018 CHENIN: Jambon persillé, cold chicken terrine, Waldorf salad, nordic shrimp, fish with béarnaise.
2018 CAB FRANC: Lean duck roast with “sauce aux olives,” lamb gyro, blue cheese, charred cauliflower with tahini, roasted river fish.

 
 

ENVÍNATE

FIELD NOTES

2017 MIGAN LA HABANERA: Savory pepper and fine herbs are coiled underneath dark fruit. Tasted and assembled from large foudres in April 2018.  Patience rewarded!

2018 BENJE LAS ARENAS: The freshness of this site just continues to impress.  This is a less oxidative version of 2017 with nervy acidity and a seamless, salt-tinged texture.

2018 MIGAN TIO LUIS: A more Gamay-esque, pepper-endowed site that plays a lovely foil to the formidable La Habanera. Affable, ultra-fresh red fruit gives way to smoky/savory notes. Lovely freshness and elegance in 2018 and a new level reached!

2018 MIGAN LA HABANERA: Formidable is right. Intensely reductive, brooding and primal at this stage. Expect 5 years of unwinding and you will not be disappointed when it does, and all that peppery, light-socket energy will course right through you.

2019 LOUSAS RED LABEL: 2019 was the year Envínate took the full plunge down the natural rabbit hole. Fitting, as the paradise river valley, known as Ribeira Sacra, might as well have been carved by the gods. No additives of any kind saw their way into those Galician field blends of mainly Mencía. The red label is defined by its fruit character at this stage with light earth and spice notes, hinting at what will turn up in spades as the years roll by. 

2020 BENJE BLANCO CUVEE VITICOLE: This is perhaps our finest white wine collab with Envínate to date. With pure Canary Island vibes, Listan Blanco finds powerful energy on the volcanic plateau of Santiago Del Teide. Zero additives were used during elevage. This is flinty and salt-kissed, brimming with vibrancy.
 
RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW
2017 HABANERA: Drink now – 2035+
2018 BENJE: Drink now – 2029+
2018 TIO LUIS: Drink now – 2040+
2018 HABANERA: Accessible now, best 2025 - 2045+
2019 RED LABEL: Drink now – 2040+
2020 BENJE BLANCO: Drink now – 2033+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING
17/18 HABANERA & TIO LUIS: For Listan Negro, proteins in vinegar-based sauces rule: marinated pork, bbq etc. Vegetarian dishes with big flavor like Indian are also welcome.
2018 BENJE: Shellfish, light fowl, soft mild cheese.
2019 RED LABEL: Rabbit paella, chickpea stew, strong cheeses, squid in red wine.
2020 BENJE BLANCO: Cheese borek, good anchovies and good bread, dried shrimp stir-fry, grilled sardines.

 
 

2018 DOMAINE GANEVAT BLANC AGITE orange wine

FIELD NOTES
A blend of Jura’s two white grapes: Chardonnay and Savagnin.  This saw a few weeks of skin contact which adds texture and exotic fruits and florals to what would otherwise be a citrus and sea salt laser beam. 

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW:
Drink now – 2034+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING: 
Skin contact is a vegetarian’s dream.  This should handle all the fall and winter veggies admirably along with lighter game dishes like fowl and pork.

 
 

MARTIN MUTHENTHALER

FIELD NOTES

2018 GRUNER VELTLINER SPITZER GRABEN: Crisp, pure and dangerously easy to love. Citrus and peach notes are folded underneath spicy, savory, herbaceous joy. Remarkably fresh.

2018 GRUNER VELTLINER SPITZER GRABEN EXTENDED ELEVAGE: All the spicy, smoky, lentil-y signatures of Austria’s mother white: Grüner Veltliner.  A harmonious textured version that saw 20 months in tank on its lees.

2015-17 GRUNER VELTLINER SPITZER GRABEN: All three vintages of Grüner Veltliner are variations of a similar theme. 2016 was the coolest year bringing out the light elderflower florals and spicy notes that are hallmarks of the grape. All three wines are crisp, pure and dangerously easy to love. Citrus and peach notes are folded underneath spicy, savory, herbaceous joy. Bottling under screw cap lends itself to remarkable freshness…
 
RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW
2018: Now – 2026+
2018 EXTEND: Drink now – 2032+
2015-17: Now – 2025+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING
Heirloom tomatoes, lentils, fresh greens...also beautiful with seafood like Nordic shrimp, smoked oysters and scallops...

 
 

2020 FORADORI TEROLDEGO

FIELD NOTES
An elegance master class here with Myrta’s soft extraction bottling. You can feel the reduction of hyper-rocky soils, lending a smoky, matchstick character to the nose that will meld with a little age. The palate is ethereal and delicate with gorgeous energy.

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW
Drink now – 2031+

SEASONAL PAIRING
From the land of speck! Cheesy stuffed pasta. Pierogies with potato and sour cream. Polenta or grits. Also — a smoked meat (medium fat) sandwich on rye bread with mustard! 

2018 JOLIE LAIDE HALCON VINEYARD SYRAH

FIELD NOTES
This parcel of Syrah is glorious. Planted on a soft slope, on highly porous rocky-gravel soils in Mendocino, with exceptional drainage. Dry farmed, high-density, low-vigor and a slow and steady vegetative season thanks to very cool nights… all the elements we love to bring loads of natural complexity.  Scott’s Syrah block is notoriously picked last. He takes wonderful care of the fruit once in the cellar. All whole cluster, foot crushed, low alcohol, aged in old French barrels. Enchanting perfume, the kind I’d wear. A Syrah that dances on the tongue while showing lovely concentration. Weightless. Ethereal. Pretty.

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW:
Drink now – 2035+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING: 
BBQ quail. Braised red cabbage (with or without smoked lardons). Charred cauliflower with capers, brown butter and almonds. Lamb shoulder braised with tomato-olives-rosemary. Kefta. Stuffed vine leaves. Muhammara. Paneer. Indian chickpea stews. 

MINGACO

FIELD NOTES
Oh the different shades of Muscat! Notorious for its aromatic intensity, the mandarin-floral perfume of Muscat takes on even more exotic notes when allowed to rest on its skins. The orange label was aged in wood and carries more weight and body than the Black ‘flor’ label, which is more restrained and saline with gentle suspicions of Sherry-like notes from the veil of yeast that was allowed to form in tank…

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW:
BLANCO: Drink now – 2031+
BLANCO 'FLOR': Drink now – 2031+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING: 
BLANCO: Yakitori, spanakopita, lentil stew, Thai green curry
BLANCO 'FLOR': Pan con tomate, pork bo ssam, kimchi, sautéed wild mushrooms

DOMAINE GIACHINO

FIELD NOTES
2020 MONDEUSE: Peppery, herbaceous alpine energy flows through this bottling. The Giachino Mondeuse expresses itself more like Beaujolais with spicy softness. Pushing the envelope of low intervention, the Giachino brothers employed zero additives throughout the life of our bottlings together. 
2018 MONDEUSE: Dark fruit gives way to earthy, peppery nuances and crushing tannin (a hallmark of most Northern French reds in 2018). Pure energy in the mid palate, this is a monstrously serious Mondeuse that will need time to unwind and show its softer side.

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW:
2020: Drink now – 2034+
2018: Best 2025 – 2040+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING: 
2020: Saucisson sec, gougeres, mashed potatoes with cheese (aligot!), stuffed Lebanese eggplant, samosas, roasted game, paneer
2018: More marbled proteins with the amount of tannin, risotto 

PAX

FIELD NOTES

2017 PAX SYRAH: This is Cote Rotie meets Cornas. Imagine pretty pepper-tinged lavender on a laser beam focused, rustic spine. Patience 100% required as this has enough structure to go the distance. Ultra-low sulfur (didn’t need it with all that structure).
2018 PAX SYRAH: In a way this is an homage to Jean Michel Stephan, a Côte Rotie producer who ferments carbonically.  Like last year, imagine pretty pepper-tinged, smoky-lavender laced fruit and now add to it Beaujolais texture and vibrancy. Sulfur was ultra-low once again.

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW
2017: Now – 2036+
2018: Now – 2034+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING
Grilled fowl and heavily marbled meats. Indian food!!

2017 MEINKLANG GRAUPERT RED, AUSTRIA

FIELD NOTES
Niklas Petlzer of Meinklang sent several barrel samples to Vanya and I in the summer of 2020. We ended up unanimously selecting a white and a red from the same wild, unpruned vineyard, Graupert. The grapes from these unkempt tree-like vines yield less grapes but small, intense berries with added depth and character. The 2016 red from the Zweigelt grape spent a long life in barrel before coming into its own. It’s a floral, herb-kissed offering that still has a long life in bottle to look forward to…

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW:
Drink now – 2033
 
SEASONAL PAIRING: 
Korean BBQ, fish in tomato sauce, coq au vin, baigan ka bharta

2018 CURTET CUVEE

FIELD NOTES
Last tasted just after bottling in June of 2019. Ethereal texture and energy, showcasing everything you’d expect out of something alpine: fresh, salty and soaring…

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW:
Best now - 2034

SEASONAL PAIRING: 
Soft alpine cheese, poached white fish, flatbread with gruyère

2020 DEISS 'L'ARCHE' BLANC ALSACE

FIELD NOTES

Intensity: L’Arche conjures up the images of biblical floods and species preservation. It’s an example of what happens when 60 ‘lost’ Alsatian varieties get repropagated and interplanted together and co-fermented with Grand Cru Riesling. It has an uncommon energy and expansiveness as does the ultra-pristine Metamorphose which takes our ’19 orange wine Deiss collab to new heights in spicy-exotic fashion…

RECOMMENDED DRINK WINDOW:
Drink now – 2039+
 
SEASONAL PAIRING: 
Roasted onion in pie form, or made into a fun dish with goat cheese and nuts, soba noodles, seafood salads, grilled fowl, brussel sprouts.